defrog: (Default)
Here in Hong Kong, Sam Hui is generally recognized as one of the founders of what’s known as Cantopop, as he was one of the first and most successful singer-songwriters of the early 70s to sing pop/rock songs in the local Cantonese dialect instead of Mandarin, as was the tradition beforehand.

One of my favorite songs of his is “Students”. I don’t understand much of the lyrics, but I love the chord progression and key changes.



Turns out it’s actually a cover version of this song, which was a big hit in South Korea in the mid-60s and still gets a lot of tribute/karaoke action to this very day.



And it turns out that that song – the title of which translates to “Washington Square” – is actually an adaptation of this instrumental recorded a year earlier by "folk-Dixie" outfit The Village Stompers.



It’s an interesting evolution. Someone in Korea basically took an American instrumental and wrote some original Korean lyrics for it, then ten years later Sam Hui took that version and wrote some original Cantonese lyrics for it.

(I’m assuming he swiped the music from the Korean version rather than the US version. My conclusion is based on the fact that the Korean version contains one minor chord change from the original, and the Sam Hui version uses the Korean chord changes.)

Isn't this interesting?

All around the world,

This is dF
defrog: (Default)
I’m in Seoul, by the way. Have been since Monday, though I’ll be going back to Hong Kong tomorrow.

Since I haven’t had a chance to kick around much, here’s the obligatory view from my hotel room window.

MILLENNIUM VIEW, View from the Millennium Hilton, Seoul, June 2012

Just behind that is Seoul Station (a major railroad station) and Seoul Cultural Station 284 (a.k.a. the old Seoul Station building, built in 1925), which looks like this:

CULTURE CENTER 01, Seoul, June 2012

Across from that is Seoul Square, which looked like this:

SEOUL SQUARE 01, Seoul, June 2012

That walking image on Seoul Square is animated, incidentally.

And that’s about it from Seoul. I spent most of the trip in the hotel MCing a conference or typing furiously. And I head for the airport in the morning.

If you want to see more Seoul, you can always look at my pics from my last trip here two years ago. That’s what I do.


Which is relevant, actually, since I actually visited this very hotel during that trip. Or rather, the Seven Luck Casino right next to it.

Small world, eh?

What are the odds,

This is dF



defrog: (falco)
Remember when I told you about the official chocolate of the Korean DMZ?

I finally got around to scanning the boxes.

seoul DMZ

seoul DMZ

The difference is that the chocolate in the top box has a candy shell and looks like bird's eggs.

DISCLAIMER: Of course this is not the only chocolate to be found in the DMZ. I got a Crunky bar and a Ghana bar as well while I was there. But as far as I know, to get this specific chocolate, you gotta go to the DMZ. Or at least if you want it in the DMZ packaging.

Postcard inside,

This is dF
defrog: (air travel)
And finally, a collection of extra sights in Seoul for yr edification and amusement.

seoul

Some explanations for you:

1. A dog guarding a hot pot restaurant in Itaewon (old tourism district).

2. Our bus driver had swords on the dashboard. Because you never know when you might be attacked by bandits after yr piggy bank.

3. Happiness Phantom ... is happy. (One of the many reasons I will always hate Andrew Lloyd Webber.)

4. The Soul Train clothing store in Itaewon. I went in (wouldn’t you?), but they mostly sell hip-hop clothing, which isn’t what I’m into at the moment.

5. Wire-frame bodies near Seoul Tower.

6. I saw a lot of interesting signs in Seoul. Some of them I didn’t get pictures of (like “Human Dental Clinic” and “Broiled Small Intestine Of Cattle Restaurant”). And of course this one (snapped by someone else):



7. A statue from the Bank Of Korea Fountain.

8. A sitting-out area across from Sinchon Station.

9. Another clothing shop in Itaewon, and possibly the creepiest sign in all of Korea.

Right. Well, that’s probably more than enough Seoul for you. Overall, I had a good time, though the DMZ and the food were the only really amazing highlights. I can’t explain it, but Seoul is one of those places where just being there is a bit of a treat. Of course it has its downsides like any other city, but as a visitor I like immersing myself in it and trying to hack through the language barrier.

And so much for Seoul. I have Taiwan pics for you next. But there’s only around four good ones, so don’t worry, they won’t take up much of yr time.

Seoul provider,

This is dF

defrog: (air travel)
No package tour is complete without yr entire group being set loose in trendy shopping areas, and this was no different. Of course, since I’m only interested in books and CDs, for me it’s more of an excuse to take photos of street scenes.

Like this.

seoul

These were taken mostly around Myongdong, Sinchon Station and Gunpo, and give you a fairly good idea of what Seoul is like at street-level: busy and full of shops, snack stalls and cute signs.

FUN FACT: Back when I was going to Seoul more regularly – which is to say around ten years ago – I went to Myongdong quite often because that’s where Tower Records was. It’s not there anymore, of course. But I’ll always remember it because it’s where I bought a replacement copy of Bad Religion’s Recipe For Hate – which is significant because it has a note on it saying it was cleared by the Korea Censorship Board.

Which I find amusing in a grim way.

PRODUCTION NOTE: Korea’s govt-run censorship board has since been replaced by the Korea Media Ratings Board, which is less stringent unless yr talking about songs by Rain, who is too sexy for the govt.

Respect.

Next: the thrilling conclusion!

Street legal,

This is dF
defrog: (44 magnum)
The first day of the trip, they took us to see the Korea Police Heritage Museum. Which is better than it sounds, and worth a separate post primarily for its impressive collection of swords, SWAT dioramas and bondage gear.

seoul

I assume the swords and knives were collected from criminal gangs and aren’t standard issue for the police. At least not today. Anyway, we had the most fun with the dioramas taking Godzilla shots. Def Fr0g Attacks Downtown Seoul, etc.

That last shot, incidentally, is of real cops who were gathered en masse next to the museum when we came out.

Verisimilitude!

Up next: the streets!

It’s a fair cop,

This is dF
defrog: (air travel)
Here’s something you may not know about me: the first ever “Asian” food I ever tried was Korean food. I tried it in Clarksville, TN at a Korean restaurant near Fort Campbell, and became a regular for the 4.5 years I lived there – which is also how I learned to use chopsticks long before I ever moved to Hong Kong.

So of course, when I go to Korea, food is a highlight. And as you can see, it’s not all kimchi.

seoul food

Which isn’t to say we didn’t have much kimchi. Quite the opposite. We even made our own (the woman at center row, right? That’s our kimchi instructor).

But that mosaic is a bit misleading in that 80% of our meals (included in our tour package) looked a lot like the 8th photo (bottom row, center). They were good, but hot pots get tedious after a few days – especially when yr looking forward to Korean BBQ where you cook yr own meat.

So we took advantage of street snack stalls when we could – such as that corn dog coated with french fries (top row, right), or the BBQ chicken/kidney kebabs (top row, center). The chicken kebab was the one that almost killed both me and the bridal unit from Spice OD. The french-fried corn dog was okay but messy and something I should probably never eat again.

The best snack food: the pancake on a stick with a fried egg in the middle (center row, left).

Not pictured: the donuts we had at a Mister Donut in Myongdong, and the banana crepe handrolls in the Doota food court.

A word about the moose head:

That’s the Beer Liquor Cabin, a place near our hotel in the suburb of Gunpo. We went kicking around after dinner, saw the moose head and instantly needed to walk in and drink something. As you do. The whiskey was pricey, so I stuck with Cass beer. We also had clams. In a hot pot, of course.

Final note: one thing I noticed in Seoul was that cafes and bars aren’t always separate businesses. I lost count of how many signs I saw saying: “Coffee, Beer, Whiskey”.

Also: the last time I was in Seoul was something like 2002. One obvious difference: there are a lot more Starbucks now.

Next: the police!

Are you going to eat that,

This is dF
defrog: (air travel)
So I went to Seoul for four days. I will file my report now in five installments (because we’ve got a lot of ground to cover here and studies show if an LJ post can’t be read in 45 seconds, people will just skip over it).

Let’s start with the obvious hot topic: the Demilitarized Zone. I was there. I saw it.

DMZ SUMMARY

I can’t tell you what things I expected to see at the DMZ. An amusement park with a ride called the Super Viking was not one of them.

Anyway, the amusement park was closed, so it didn’t distract all that much from the general gravitas that you expect from a No Man’s Land splitting a country in half. (And I saw East Germany back when there was one, so I can say that.)

We saw much, most of which we weren’t allowed to take photos of (to include, sadly, the highway sign saying “Pyeongyang: 203 miles” – one of many things I had never seen before and may never see again).

Consequently, what you see in the Photobukkits is mainly the Bridge of Freedom, where POWs were handed over from North to South in 1953 (and where the first transborder railway link was tested in 2007) and the location of The 3rd Tunnel Of Aggression (one of four tunnels running under the DMZ that NK evidently dug in hopes of launching a secret ground attack on Seoul – the SK govt suspects there are at least ten more they haven’t found yet).

The tunnel was physically grueling in ways I didn’t expect – a 350-meter walk down a sharp slope then another 435 meters inside the tunnel which you can walk comfortably as long as you are under five feet tall. On the plus side, the museum came with a multiscreen propaganda film explaining loudly about those insidious North Koreans.

Overall, it was an interesting experience. It really gives you an idea of the tensions between the North and South, why they exist and why it could all go pear-shaped in a heartbeat if Kim Jong-Il or his successor were to finally just say, “Oh fuck it, let’s roll.”

PRODUCTION NOTE: That last picture there about the DMZ chocolate? We tried it. It’s chocolate-covered soybeans with a candy shell. Not too bad.

Next: the food!

The demilitarized zone is for loading and unloading only,

This is dF
defrog: (planet terror)
I’m back from my tour of Seoul and the DMZ. I have pictures. You will see them one day.

In the meantime, I should state that Team Def categorically denies any involvement, participation or undisclosed knowledge of the following:



Obviously this was all over the local news in SK. Our tour bus driver was following it on his dashboard digital TV and giving updates to our tour guide to relate back to us – and at least one person in that info chain seemed convinced North Korea did it because it would be just like them, the bastards, wouldn’t it?

But then South Korea is understandably nervous about this kind of thing, what with North Korea being the crazy unpredictable neighbor with a score to settle and all. And of course it wouldn’t be the first time the NK and SK navies mixed it up a little, though actually torpedoing a ship and sinking it – or supposedly putting a sea mine in its path on purpose – raises the stakes considerably.

Assuming that’s what happened. We’ll find out soon, I suppose, one way or the other – although the usual suspects have unsurprisingly drawn their own conclusions.

And of course it’s all Obama’s fault, because Kim Jong-Il would NEVER have tried a stunt like this when Bush was in office (except for, you know, that one time – otherwise, sure, he stuck to minor-league stuff like missile launches and nuclear bomb tests).

Anyway, not to sound blase about it, but even though the news broke the day we were visiting the DMZ – which provided detailed historical context of the North/South dilemma – we didn’t feel as though we were in any imminent danger of being caught up in an impending war, if only because we were getting our info via second-hand translation or via the local Korean TV channels which we couldn’t understand, not speaking Korean (plus CNN was broken in the hotel).

But even then, as I said, NK and SK have had scraps before, and the truth is neither SK nor any of its allies (or even China) really wants to restart the Korean Police Action if they can avoid it, so I figured the chances of a full-scale attack during our vacation were pretty slim.

So stand by for the usual photos of food, landmarks, amusing storefronts and M*A*S*H references, is what I’m saying.

Don’t rock the boat,

This is dF
defrog: (air travel)
After a mad week of deadlines and crunchy smog, I am off to South Korea for the next four (4) days. Specifically, I’m be in and around Seoul.

Which, oddly, always makes me think of this song.



The good news is that, for once, it’s not for business purposes. It’s an honest-to-god vacation. Which is cool – it’s been six years since my last trip to Korea and eight since I’ve been to Seoul in particular. It’ll be nice to go kick around and see some stuff and eat some food.

Oh, and this time I’m going to the DMZ.

So if you see any news stories about another American reporter busted in North Korea for “crossing” the border illegally ... well, you know, put in a word for me at the embassy.

I'm hoping there's a bowling alley there. Bowling is pretty popular in Korea. And if I can manage a blog headline like "I went bowling in the DMZ", that could be my ticket to a guest spot on BoingBoing.

Anyway, I won’t be taking my laptop and I’m not likely to be blogging from the hotel business center apart from the occassional FB update, so you won’t be hearing from me again until next week.

Signing off.

Sold my Seoul to rock’n’roll,

This is dF

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